Iranian National Museum (Pre-Islamic Era)

The Above is the Plaque that decorates the entrance of the pre-islamic section of Iranian National Museum. It was build in 1306 of the Iranian calender (this years is 1385) under order of Reza Khan first king of the Pahlavi Dynesty.



This is the entrance to the Museum itself. The arch (specially this type) is essentially Persian (Similar to the Madaen Palce in Today's Iraq which was the Capital of the Sassanid Dynesty) After assumtion of power, Reza Shah odered destruction of some important buildings with Qajar Style and ordered that they would be replaced with new architecture which are more plain.



The bowl above was discovered in south west of Iran. The design and colors of this bowl, and the fact that it dates to the time well before the Greek civilization (and the Indo European migration) makes me wonder if the Spartans basically copied this style to make their famous Black and red bowls and pots. Let's turn to our local archeologist, what's the verdict Patrick?



The top section of a stone tablet depicting king Hammurabi of Babylon and a servant of the court, the bottom part is where the codes are written (pictures below). ("a humble functionary" as in Yes minister series). Obviously this piece is not the one that was in Babel but one of many that were sent to provincial cities. Most of the Civilizations in Middle East have left some form of declaration or code carved in stone.
Some pundits of ancient politics are of the opinion that the reason that Athenian Democracy was never accepted in the Mesopotamia is mainly pressure from SCU (Stone Carvers Union) who dreaded changing the laws every time public polls moved one way or the other.



Their will be more pics to come from same collection including the Depiction of Darius's Court, The King who suppressed the Ionian revolt in todays Turkey by recapturing Sardes and sent an army to punish the Atheanians for their aid to the rebels but was defeated in battle of Marathon)

Last Post from Tehran.... for now

I should countinue with the Khafan kids post first, I don't know why but this one slipped my mind. As I was talking to N.F#3 he was telling me about the Public Trends, and this one was a little odd for me. Somthing like playing Musical instruments in out doors would be the trend for a while and then it would be something else. Ofcourse something like Sking in the winter or hiking in the summer never fall from beng fashionable or the Film Festival at the middle of winter.
It amazing that even though there is not a medium like the T.V in America that sets the "cool" standards the "cool" standard somes into Existance in any case. I have not discovered that how the new standard can be perpetuated, thats for a sociologist to find out, but it would be useful to know the mechanism. In anycase, I think anybody would prefer this natural occurance to the manufacutred crap on American T.V.

Well this is it for now from the dirty, chaotic, and exciting city of Tehran, ... for now of course. I had having both a good times and some disappointing times, like its life. 10 years is a long time so I regret the size and chaose of the city but Openness of the people is a nice surprize, only of they would be more active! But I suppose that comes with time.
I'm getting out of tehran today at 9:00 pm toward Yazd which passes Arak and Natanz. the head over toward Zagros Mountains in the west, the place of Bakhtari and Qhashqai tribes, to Shahre-Kurd (where the Kurds are not the sizable mainority, kind of like Kansas City which is NOT in Kansas) and then to Isfahan and my not so little city.

later for now,

Thursday Night With the Khafans in Khafanistan

Vocab lesson=
Khafan: cool. slang in Farsi
Khafanistan: Place of the cool people. my addition to the slang culture

Well, a colleague of my mother who also happens to be the teacher of my sister and mother of her best friend in Iran back in days, invited us for a little get together. So after observing the half hour customay delay, we were right on time (6:30 pm) at the location, where I came to the horrifice realization that it seem to be an all women Dorreh (it is a cultural thing, women from a special time - uni, high school or occupation like teachers gather get together and talk -I think behind men's back to laugh at their expence) but lucky enough for me there were two guys over their one of them being the son of the hostess N.F#2 and the other dude N.F#3 being his friend/ associated in a small Montage (film editing) company.
After practically being led outside, we desided to head to their comapany's location, and then take it from their. on the way their we got acquainted better one of them turned out to be from Ekbatan (THE place)

So after a glich was solved, we head outside the city, to the lower elevations of the Alborz mountains that strech north of Tehran and serve as a getaway location all across the northern edge of the city. we went to the east side a place called Fasham which happened to be hald of tehrans plan. We got to the location possesed several Hookah places along one of the many little rivers that run down the mountains (It was not a Shishah place, because as it turned out in Tehran means Meth)

Immidietly an disagreement occured that I was not a part of, N.F# 2 wanted to go to one place because he knew people there and N.F#4 had exactly same plan for the place across the 2 lane highway that people drive like they are in a French Police movie. So eventually we went to the location on the same side of the road, besically what it was was a garden by the river with Cherry trees hanging over benched that people sit on (no chairs, old schools Style benches with carpets over them, very cool set up and location) but we soon found out that we have to wait in line. The prospect of waiting in line like other people is quit an insult to honour and dignity of an Iranian, especially when you have to wait in the NORMAL people's line and not the VIP line. Yet i was quite happy to check out the scenery but the other guys said lets go and so N.F#2 and I were in un-vocal minority .

We crossed the road which made me nostlogic for existance of a god in case of death, and we arrived at the other place who the N.F#4 knew somebody at only to find out that they only serve food and no hookah Also the average age of the crowd is higher by 30 or 40 or lower byy 20, it was a family place. N.F#3, quite imbarresed that he has recommended such (place) inquired why there are no hookahs, and the host the door said told him that since they drew a specially large crowds, the police has told them that they cannot have the hookahs for couple of weeks.
so we went back to the first place prepared to wait in line, where, N.F#2 took advantage of the fact that another person with the same last name as him (who had perhaps gotten in 2 hours before us) had left and delivered the mircle of VIPism.

As I was talking to the N.F#3 who had a lot of questions about Calif, the very quite N.F.5 was complaining about the bad headache he had from the bad whiesky he and other had the night before and was cursing the N.F#2 who had provided it. apparently my new friend is a dealer -alcohol dealer- where as N.F#5 is the other kind of dealer, very cool.
Meanwhile N.F#3 was telling me about the Iranian girls and revealing that alot of girls have become "wealth-worshipers," I was replied that "that's the way it is all over and not only Iran" and he apparently was suffering from the "broken heart" deasease. he compared his relationship with French Movie Bittr Moon ( I've not seen it). but we soon moved on to other subjects.

We ate our food which was superb, very tender rice and Chicken Kabob (not the Turkish style) and proceeded to head out where aroung 300 people were waiting and i think cursing us for moving slowly. at the front there were kids showing off the new cars anything from lowered Z4 to SLK and Toyota SUVs and such, there are people with a lot of money over here and they all think that they have worked hard to gather their wealth where as the poor who work 2 shifts a day have not.

Some og the Kids have very extravegant hair cuts, some of which are quit imaginitive, and the extra made-up girls (and some of the boys) that think they have fallen from the skies as blessing from the gods to the us mortals, N.F# 4 told me "don't look at them they think they are special." the kids that their only problem is that the gas is getting too low in their car and they have to wait in the gas station line for perhaps 45 minutes, as we call them "Tohfeha"

The good feeling from the garden is mixed with a peculiar merger of amusement and disappointment.

I cannot say that individual social freedom is not important that wold be too easy 9and i would think I would be a dishonest person if i would claim such a nonesence) for I who has spent 10 years in U.S. which is a open society but there is a difference between freedom to do and think as you wish and wastful, extravegant, aimless life of a rich kid whose life is summerized by a nice car, stupd haircut and daddies money.

The wealthy middle class, I believe, who are worst than people who have broken down the economy and opprossed the masses. For the powerfull depend on complacancy of the middle class to do as they wish.

Yet I've the people who are not wealthy, like some of my friends in varius universities, say that they want to be left alone to their business -Scientific research, medical practise, ournalism, surfing, and they make the ultimately political desicion to be "non-political," go figure, because I cannot

The left overs from First Impressions

Well for you die hard fans of Rant-A-Thon, (I know there are so many of you and not because of the number of the comments on the site) you can remember that I promised to go more into to three subjects in the First Impression post.
The first one was the number of the mosques under construction. Now it is important (it may seem stupidly obvious) to let you know that back in the days (when I was here before) mosques are primarily used as place for prayers every evening. In my huge neighborhood (Ekbatan) on Thursday nights (in Iran and most Moslem countries Friday is the day off and Thursday is sot of similar to Saturdays) the kids of all ages (14-80) would come to the long shopping center (a hybrid between a mall and Bazar, lots of shops and boutiques selling everything from dried seeds and fast food to shoes and electronic) and go up and down, look an be looked upon. Also we have a Mosque dead in the center of the action which we generally dreaded to go by, this was the area that the people who were religious, or were associated with the Basij, or the people who wanted to be seen as being religious would gather. Sometimes the basij people would start walking the center as well and would give warnings to the guys with short sleeves, girls with shorter that acceptable overcoats (called manto here a Persianized version of German Mantel) and so on…
Now in Ekbatan there is no evening prayer, sure the call to prayer is sent over a speaker but the doors of the Mosque remain through out the day. This is firstly due to the fact that being associated with the local mosque is no longer socially desirable since the members of the community avoid (if not look down upon) such people. Now the young and old gather in front of the mosque (the design of which reminds me of good concert hall) and do the things they do, such as smoking grass around the place.
In any case now that the public use of the mosques are seriously down, one wonders why there are so many new ones under construction? For example on the east of the main campus of the University of Tehran there are already two newly built (they weren’t their when I was) and yet there is another one under construction. I don’t know who the hell plans the public projects in City of Tehran (I’m not sure if there is only one person) but from public usage stand point there is no need for it anymore. So I’m believe that Mosques have switched purposes from a religious/informal security to serve as security headquarters in case of a disturbance such as the one 9 years ago In Tehran Uni (Primary holding locations of detainees).
It makes sense in a twisted sort of way, if there are political uprisings, you cannot send everyone to the jails, there are problems with that, their locations are known, the family and lawyers would show up (even though the legal system is tipped in favor of the State, there are still some rights). Now the responsible authorities can “truthfully” say that such and such a person is not in their custody and to prove it show it to some UN agency or even the Amnesty Int’l. Even if it is known that that hypothetical person is being held in a hypothetical Mosque, the police can deny it, (they do not oversee the Basij or the Mosques) and there is little possibility of an NGO or even the UN can demand an inspection of a religious site.

The second thing I wanted to talk about is short and sweet, People don’t like to be photographed, there is suspicious look when the camera is seen in you hand. They either think you work for the government, some foreign country, an opposition group (there are opposition groups outsides Iran, at least in name). When you are taking pictures of the walls and roads and trees and such everybody is happy and then they smile at you. So no pictures of people if they are gonna find out I took it.

Also the movie “Cease Fire” from Tahmineh Milani (she is not from Milan) is a highly recommended film for those who like The Iranian Cinema. It’s a comical story of a marriage in which the guy is a little bit too psychotic, and the woman too suborned. For those of you who have seen the Abbas Kiarostami’s Ten it will be enjoyable. Where as Ten takes a more broad and encompassing look at women, and marriage is only part of the plot, (which gives that film a universal messages), Cease Fire is humorous movie that the marriage is almost a character in itself.
Also the main female character is very very Iranian looking, oh Mamita.

enjoy the film

Cancel the World Cup?

Since the miserable performance of Iran in the World Cup and to mark our exit from the tournament with one game to spare, I will write on it. Originally I was trying to get to Germany and watch one of the games (preferably against Mexico) so I'm kinda glad that I'm not there. If I were at Mexico Game I would run on the field and would try to get even with the damn Goalie who cannot kick the ball to save his life.

Since the 1-3 lost to Mexico was a disturbing (it was made worst by the fact that a compadre from San Diego called it luckily) I thought I would go on the Tehran Highways and get an adrenalin rush. Didn't happen, there were too people on the highway cheering and jeering the lost and honking and some were dancing, one of them looked at me and shouted "hey think we won and be happy"
I gave it a thought, … neh I'm too much in touch with reality to do such things.
A week passed by and The Portugal game, which we lost 0-2. Within half an hour on the final whistle the jokes were being text message about the Supreme Leader football, and Ali Karimi and a ban on Oranges.

But next day papers were quite serious about the loss, one of them (shargh) took the loss so seriously that it went all the way to analyzing the society and suggesting some changes in the people behave so our sport culture would benefit. Well, I also think some changes are needed but
#1 as far as football is concerned; I don't think it would do us as much good as getting a real Goalie and a faster striker,
#2, I think we would be wasting a lot effort and time if we concentrate on changing our culture for the sake of football.

The good thing about how the tournament is going is that after our next game against Angola, I can get out and travel around. The whole reason I m hoping for a win is that after a win of Team Melli, Tehran falls in a 6-10 hour long state of "anarchyin good spirit." From these kinda of partying, I've heard stories and I'm pretty much sure that legends are unmade and remade and sometimes just made.

So let's hope for a win against the Boys from Angola, I havn't been in a 15 million people party.

The Nukes,

Since it is in the News everywhere, I thought I should blog this issue too. Not all the stuff (statements or the conspiracy theories) I mention here are my guesses and opinions and I will periodically remind you that also.

I was talking to O.F#1 and since he had studies in sciences it makes sense know his opinion. His first statement was that "they [gov] haven't done anything about sciences no investment in research no financial assistance to the students so how the hell they can claim that its for the scientific purposes"
(In Iran the Universities are free although there are semi private universities, but cost of living is high for people who have jobs never mind the students)

Well it’s a good point but I reminded him that "well Iran is actually in growing need of energy and one of the positive aspects of nuclear energy is that its environmentally friendly, and also whether we are the forth largest exporter of fossil fuel (crude oil to be more specific but Iran does have the 2nd largest gas reserve in the world as well) is completely irrelevant to the development of other sources of energy. Its like telling they Americans you possess the largest arsenal of nuclear weapons and as history has shown (the very recent history, since freakin Reagan) you have this sadistic tendency to invade countries, so you have to stop manufacturing chemicals for fertilizers."

Then he countered me "it cannot be that for peaceful purposed, the government is surely violating the NPT obligations the have suspended surprise visitation of the IAEA inspectors and there was a report from the same agency that measurements of the radioactivity in one of the sites was three times the percentage needed for a reactor."

For sake of international treaties I do hope that Iran does not follow the example of U.S. and Israel, by violating its obligation, but there is no way I could be sure, the Iranian Government has failed to include me in mailing list of briefings and the memos (I think it’s the blog) but I replied that "the surprise visits are not part of the NPT, Iranian Government under Khatami The useless signed and additional protocol (Why? Why?...) as a reassuring measure to the English (the ENGLISH) and the French (remember the Bikini Islands underwater test) and the Germans (as if they are not out biggest european economic partner) furthermore the Russians confirmed that the equipments that they have sent to Iran were contaminated" (I think after the whole "Crisis" is over we should take'em to court)

But he made a point that, " we are saying that Nuclear Energy is needed for development of industry, but Iran is not making a single engine in Iran they are all French, Korean and British models that they just press over here, there is no designing of new products here [Iran]" (there is a little bit of military stuff but they are made based on the Russian, Chinese and N. Korean models that no body is fiddles around with there design, which might be a good thing when explosives are concerned)

That’s a point to take to heart, why only development in order to create international confrontation (even if its is our right) I don't mean we should be like the British (Blair to be more precise and more fair) who follow the Yanks like trained pet, we should aim for technologic progress and regional security (because no one is going to help Iran if there is a war, remember the 80's) No we should aim for progress if there is cooperation everyone benefits and if there is confrontation then the people would be more likely to rally around our position on that given issue because of benefits that they have received. Regional crisis perpetuated by an outside power (and Israel) can be good for Iran if the right moves are made. But when gov is pissing the people outside and neglects the people inside, then situation and crisis are bad for the whole country and should be avoided like the plague.

The internet connection of the Café is broken off so I'm gonna rant a bit more and then paste it on the blog;
Tehran is the middle of a bowl, mountains all around the tall and jaged Alborz Mountains are in the north , the city has a slope from north to south which make the air in the north much better and the properties more expensive and all the people would go "up north for a bit off relaxation" We went to North Tehran the Jamshidieh Park and on the way down the cabbie and we were talking about bad habits of the different regions of Iran, People of Shiraz are jealous, Abadan People are bluffers, the Isfahan People are stingy (I feel that its completely false) the Taxi driver said: the Qom (the host of the Shiaa school of Theology and a shrine of someone) people are "Candle thieves"

I asked him what does it mean to be a "Candle thieves" and he replied; "the Donkeys that go to the shrine every Thursday night to prey and ask for whatever problem thy have to be solved lit candles, then the Qomis go and put out the candles and sell it to them again."

I asked him what about people of Tehran and he said "they are friendly and big spenders" I asked him where are you from and he said "of course Tehran, but I'm not saying it because I'm from here" he went on to tell us he is from Jamaran.
(Jamaran is the place where Khomeini lived in after consolidation of the power by the Islamic Republican Party, its in north of Tehran its near one of the Palace complexes of the Shah –Sa'ad Abad and 45 minutes drive to the Niavaran Palace also)
We asked him if he still lives there and he said: "no they offered us 20,000Toman per meter to build a hospital for him" (20,000 toman is 200,000 rial the Public has droped a zero from the money but they governments have kept the rial for a good 40 years)
We asked if they took the offer, and he said: "of course we didn't want to be his neighbor."
All right that’s enough about That I should Clarify that in Iran a person who excels in stupidity is called a donkey, it is the universal animal for stupidity but overhere ou ha e to be really stupid to be called a donkey or an Ollagh.
I said stupidity and was reminded of the Democratic Party of U.S.; as far as the Democratic Party is concerned their symbol is actually a Jackass; since Andrew Jackson was called one during the election and went on to win it. So they kept it as the symbol.

"Lighter Subjects"

As demanded by my artisitc advisor (certainly not my economic one) Won, its time for some "lighter subjects":

The Pictures in this posts are random pics from Tehran. There will be another post picture from the Gate of National Garden (Sar-dare Baghe Melli) and Iranian National Museum (both Anciant and Islamic Periods)



View of the City from my Window the window is facing south so you only get the souther half of the city, its around 8 or 9 am.











The Sa'ie Park in center of the city, Tehran has a lot of green in the city and they are well attended but number of the cars (and also their type) is too much for the trees.




Among the worst car made in human History is Peykan (which went off line last year) which was imported from France in the 1960's and was reporoduced in exactly the same way until 2005, picture above:






It takes a long time to upload the pics and the Dutch have scored a goal already, I'm off. more pics to come and certainly some from the celebration of Iran's victory over Mexico (2-1)

Diagnosis and Prediction

While I write cynically about the administrative and legal areas of Iranian society and while all of the people that comment on the governmental development (Specially about Ahmadinezhad) are specially very negative, I must say that in comparison to when I left, the society has opened up quit a lot.
For exapmle in case of women, 10-15 years ago, upper class and land holding women did not need to work, and just like elsewhere in the world the unskilled labour and farmers depended on women either to increase the income of their household in case of former or to utilize the "Womenpower" in harvests in case of the latter. In the case of the middle class women, jobs used to be as nurses, teachers, secretaries, and such, but since the women have captured a clear majority in Universities (55% three years ago and around 60% last year) the women are becoming more of a factor in economic life of the country.
Prediction:
Essentially, not only necessity of incorporating women in the workforce will increase their economic power which in turn results in an increase in their political power (this sort of change is "easier" than changing social norms and deep rooted tradition) but the dependence of the traditional and religious Iranian middle class families on extra income would better their social standing (which is harder to change since its deeply rooted in the societies' norms and standards) This first type of change is a legal one and unless it takes place with shifts in social and non-governmental views of the roles of women, it would be short lived; the best example is that of the superficial political changes in women's' standing during the period of last king which was not entailed any other shifts by fundamental and deeper shifts in the society because it did not correlate with any great change in the women's' role in the economy. Essentially, the enhancement of the women's role in economy and politics changes will be sustainable in the long run because it will be across economic sectors and supported by various other groups and men in various classes and occupations.
Also the Iran government is initiating the "Change like the Chinese Model" the gradual transition from the a brutal totalitarian system to a less intrusive system of Authoritarian politics.
In other words, in early period after the consolidation of the power by the Islamic Republican Party (one year after the revolution) and its dissolution, the aim of the state was to offer and enforce an a complete model of how to live, and it controlled not only the economy and politics and courts but also imposed the Islamic model on educational institutions, social relations, even holidays. But now the powerful people in the system (even with this President) are gradually moving away from regulating people's daily life, of course, the non-economic aspects of it, such as the veil (the Basij and the schools are beginning to discourage wearing of the overall veil in parts due to fears that it could be used in similar ways and for the similar purpose as in Algeria; movement of weapons and explosives) the government is leaving the economic sectors other the lucrative Oil industry free to rampage by the typical upper middle-class Capitalists (who are connected to government in any case) who have earned their capital by importing goods from southern Persian Gulf States (partly the reason for the boom in those countries) who get richer by creating fake shortages.
Anyhow the concentration of the political and economic power by the state is destined to clash with the increase in power of the women. Of course its not only the women but also labourers (since the Economic plans of the government is discouraging the opening of new production facilities and is gradually killing the existing production lines in favor of importation of same goods from Asia and Europe) In Short the motto of the new system will be "stay out of politics and you may have a good life"

The Good Kids of the Neighborhood

Some other days after the Night of Thousand Words, I finally met up with an old friend from my neighborhood. (O.F#1 is a schoolmate) Back in the days, my friends and I used to be a little too much of a hand full for the local Basij people. The head of the division actually knew us by name, and when he had any question regarding the Heavy Metal music or the new movies, would come to us and made indirect inquiries. Quite and open-minded person now that I think about it. In any case we were not the Khalaf (wrong) kids, but we were extremely successful in being picked up and harassed while we were trying to pick up (this was from age 13-16 for me)
Anyhow on the plan to Tehran I was thinking about these kids and I also had heard that price of Heroin in our local is low comparative to other areas of similar income.
Anyhow, we met and after the warm welcome that is the tradition of the Iranians, he asked my what I'm doing here and After I told him that I came to see how is the weather and the city and the people, he bluntly told me don't come back here, unless you are a going to put your money in the bank (Islamic Republic has found a way around the Religious rule that prohibits interest and now the interest rates in Iran are between 16 to 25 percent) and live of it interest.
He told me that from our group (4 girls 6 guys) 3 are married one, and all are employed and all are clean. Every one but two have jobs. He went one to admit that it is pretty remarkable that none have gone to waste considering that 100 gram of heroin cost twice as much as a packet of smokes (Rials 28,000 = $ 2.96) I cannot disagree there, no social life, unemployment of 20 percent, inflation of 25 percent, no political leanings and bankruptcy of the value system makes things such as addiction more likely. The University is nearly impossible to get into ( like Japan) e special circumstances (unlike Japan) such as being loyal that young just give up or leave the country (like Myself).
He went one to tell me that the government is not regulating the economy in some key sectors since people who control the monopolies on the certain daily goods are under the patronage of the Supreme Leader or the Head of Expediency Council (the Shark).
To be countinued

Friends and Friends of Friends

The Second day i went to see an old friend of my sister (O.F#2), she is married and has a nice and young place near a place I used to go to learn English. Her Husband (N.F#1) and she came and picked me up near Tehran Uni, and then we went to their place, its a bit strange she looked not much different and she still smiled the same way. Her husband was very cool dude and he was telling me where to go site-seeing. He was telling me about the job situation in Iran. Basically, other than field of medicine, one can be sure that studying in a given field almost guarantees that you would not be working in that field and he made example of himself. Certainly it would be devastating for the individual person's confidence but it's even worst if one considers that people who are working various civil and commercial service sectors has little knowledge and are reliant on the advice of the older generation. This makes true reform of the private and governmental agencies extraordinarily impossible.

Anyways, We drove off to a restaurant near Cinema Farhang. Of course N.F#1, called another couple, and screamed over the phone "come to Restaurant X we got someone who wants to argue!" i don't exactly recall saying that I wanted to argue, it was more like "I don't mind arguing i even like it"

*liking something does not mean immediately desiring it*

So we met at the front of the restaurant and the guy N.F#2 asks me more less "what the hell you came back here for" then starts laughing and screams I hate all of them (the Akhonds [the Clergy]) I feel a bit uneasy and starts to look around, here is a guy who has a wife, and the kind of beard that is there for having a easy life near me and saying all this stuff in relatively loud manner. I decided to be politically correct and said "well not all of them are bad there are some..." where he said "all of them are (some insult to there mothers and sisters) let's get something to eat."

Pretty much all the rest of the night my attention was with N.F#2. he told me quit proudly that he wants freedom of speech, and press and he hated "the (some other mother and sister insults) Shark" (Hashemi Rafsanjani) -which made me a little easy- but went on to say that he hated him so much that he voted for Ahmadinezhad even though he is a " retarded monkey" which puzzled disappointed me greatly.

After 30 minutes I noticed that I have not had a chance to talk more than 2-3 minutes, and what is even worst that the N.F#2 is jumping around from subject to subject with out any particular direction. I remember that he said he can mathematically prove that there is one god but then came back and said he was not religious. I tried to explain my agnosticism to him but he moved on.

Before we left the restaurant he asked me what was my type of politics and said I was left and more accurately a Socialist. This got him started on the case of socialists which he just put together with Maoists and Stalinist and Trotskyites.

N.F#2: "Socialism is strategy of the global Imperialism"
I (So annoyed that I felt the after shocks of the Quake in Java inside my body): "what makes you bring out such statement out of yourself"

N.F#2: "look at Iran revolution, Carter and the Global Liberalism made it up" [It is quit common in Iranian Circle to blame stuff on Global Liberalism, even though they cannot sa precisely what it is] {{it is also common to ignore the millions that walked the streets against Tyranny and blame Jimmy Carter and Giscard d'Estaing, especially Carter}}

The whole thing was crazy, I know some of you might say "well, Amir when you Start you go on for ever" and I agree when I get into an argument I try to make my point clear and see it to the end and I do (sometimes) bombard the other guy with facts and historical cases that support my argument. But at least I let the other guy talk.

Any case he brings out his little notebook that he keeps note the books he has read, and starts talking about way Reza Shah (The First king of Pahlavi "Dynasty" {it cannot be dynasty if there are only two king in it, can it?]) was good for Iran (which I disagree in the strongest possible sense),N.F#2 has 13 points so I ask him to let me present a counter argument after each point, he doesn't like that idea, so I let go and let him read his notes for me, every point he makes is like having a horn blown in my ears. He finishes his 13 points and tells me to go on, so I ask him to give me his notes since has talked for a good 45 minutes and i don't exactly recall 8 of the points he has made. Of course he wouldn't give me his notes since there are his (he is in his mid 30s and not 18 year old)
I just give up on this case, there are not that many people that I have given up in argument with many 4 or 5 but this was by far the worst.

I blame it on the environment, the laws governing the press are so ridiculous that every paper (Reformist or conservative) has to be connect to a faction, Shargh (east) paper the most popular of the "reformist" is connected to Rafsanjani (the Shark) Etela'at (Information) is conservative paper allied with the President Ahmadinezhad (most people think he is Ko Ko), Keyhan is reactionary and sworn loyalty to Khomeini (he is died 17 yaers ago but they are still loyal), Resalat is Ultra conservative and serves as one of the press hounds of the supreme leader Khamenei

Anyhow in this atmosphere, one cannot remain respectful of others, there are no others; you have to look out for your self. This result in the current attitude of the Iranian community here and also abroad (especially abroad)
"Democracy and freedom of speech is when one is ruling and talking, and when one is not ruling and talking then there is no democracy or freedom of speech" It manifests itself in macro and micro polities.
In any case it was an experience, he was an intelligent dude, and having been pressed too much has made him impossible to talk to, but my complex about politics was also responsible for my final disappointment I took him too seriously, but that's the way I am, there is no room for error and non

The BBC

Just wanted to check the news on the BBC, The bbc website in Farsi is blocked in Iran, So I have to go home and watch it on TV.
This makes me do a post on the preventative measures designed to limit the access to sources on the other side of the border.
that will be my project tomorrow.
laters,
sloidarity
Amir

First Impressions

I got in Tehran Mehrabad Airport 3:30am, after what seemed like three days on the plan. Seating in the middle section on the flight crossing the Atlantic to Amsterdam and then from there (KLM is the worst airline as far as punctuality, a 2 hour delay in addition to a 6 hour wait at the beginning cost me all my smokes). Waited 20 minutes to get my pass stamped and then another 30 minutes to get my stuff and then walked the inspections without the any fuss I was expecting the same treatment that I got in Kansas City Airport, opening of the luggage's and wrinkling of shirts and breaking couple of the gifts I brought for old friends!
Anyhow, my parents and an old friend from the High School days were waiting for me and it was really crowded, and a lot of cabbies, both airport cabs which are more expensive and the irregular ones that have it as their second job, so they can make ends meet.
(I will not mention any name until I'm sure that it will not be hazardous, my senses and knowledge of the place from 10 Years ago tells me not to but of otherwise is the case I will edit and put names and contacts to the labels. Until then Old friend means a person I knew before I left and new friend the reverse).
Got home and after my parents went to sleep I started chatting with Old Friend #1 (O.F#1) about the old times and the developments of the current times. He told me that he got the sixth place in Konkor ( the Dreaded University exam that impacts to the greatest degree the path of you life from when you are 18 until death) in field of mathematics and went on to focused on sciences, got his masters and really eager to be able to focus on his research and promote his field of science. He decided to start a Foundation (Bonyad) to grant scholarship and seek out founding for research, but was told that the only Foundations allowed under current laws are Religious ones (neither public ones and not private ones) that have defined religious or political purpose. He went on to explain that the government is actively discouraging the scientific thinking and production. We talked some more and I became rather shocked (and hopeful) to see that he has turned to a non-religious person, as I remember him to be a unpretentious religious dude when we were in high school (not governmental religious but religious nonetheless).
Anyhow, it was around 10 am that I took a shower and head out with him, I wasn't tired at all anymore and wanted to walk around a my old hang outs, bit and my friend wanted to go home an sleep.
We called a cab and head out. I sat in the front which was a bad mistake since in Tehran the traffic rules, and signs and signals are either for amusement of the drivers, suggestions to which rules to break or in best case, recommendations as valuable and effective as the having a third party in U.S. After dodging a near death experience I got out of the cab in Vanak roundabout (approx Mid-northwest) and felt like the best driver that ever lived. And started to walk about, there is construction spree in Tehran unmatched anywhere else in the world and in this city there are 22 districts and every district has about 10-15 neighborhoods and the this conglomeration of human dwelling hold about 12 million people and serves as a testament to what happens when in the 300 year history there is not a single attempt to plan the growth of the city. Tehran is a bustling place and people are hassled no longer which both makes ma happy and worries me a bit. I walk down the Vali-ye-Asre (the 12th shia Emam) street which is one of the main streets of Tehran (name before the Revolution: Pahlavi [family name of the king] after the Revolution: Mossadeq) went toward my first Cinema which burnt down (or maybe as O.F#1 said was burned down) apparently the city of Tehran has a plane to build a complex in its place and the plan has been in pipelines for about 9 years and they have gotten as far as digging a whole in the ground and putting wooden boards around the place. The thing about countries like Iran is since there is no independent press and because every one strongly dislikes policies, there are no end to the rumors and conspiracy theories. EVERY single paper has a connection to a person in the system.
Anyhow I walked down toward the Tehran University main campus. Its 5 days after the 9th year anniversary of the biggest disturbances since the revolution and I want to see the atmosphere around there. But before that I need a drink, I stop by a small refreshment shop, and as soon as entering the little shop, sensed that I walked in a bad time a married 50 something year old Haji (a real Moslem who has gone to Mecca) had picked up a 20 something prostitute and I think they were in the negotiation part of the deal when I entered. I finished my drink with out tasting it, this kind of events are enough to turn your stomach for a while.
I got out and went toward the University passing the heavily guarded Ministry of State (Interior Ministry) and then passed my High School. This little part of Tehran has a street named Italy (don't know why, but we have a Argentine Roundabout too) I was born in a hospital that is about 5 or six blocks away from the old American Embassy during the hostage crisis. The Embassy is about 2 blocks away from the University and the hospital about 2 blocks west of my High school. Its perhaps one of the most historic parts of Tehran in the last 35 years and people like me go to school here walk the streets and are ignorant or unable to understand the true nature of the events that unfolded her
I get to Tehran Uni, and at the entrance there is a police guard (quit normal in a lot of countries [Sorbonne for example has the same process] but when I was here no one did it) who is checking I.D. so I walk toward the bookstores on the street in front of the main entrance and check out the titles. There are all kinds of books here except books that deal with current history of Iran, from Hillary Clinton's memoirs (that political prostitute) to Da vinci Code and books on fortune telling (which maybe useful in some political circles of Iran abroad)
I've been walking for a good 6 hours, I'm tired and every breath of air is stinging my lungs a sun is making my brain melt, I decide to call it a day its 5pm and I go to bed.
I left of three other things from my first day;
1- Mosque Construction
2- I saw a Satirical movie (Cease Fire) which dealt with the husband and wife relations in Iran, Won you would like it
3- Peoples reaction to me, and me and my camera

I'll post some pics soon as I can up load them since I brutally murdered my Laptop its rather difficult.

I'm paying 13000 rials for a pack of Cigs, 12000 for a movie, 9000 for a coffee and Iranian money is kinda like Italian Lire, lot of 000s, meaning exactly that, zero. but comparatively I feel like being robbed In Rials! The rial is so devalued that around 40 years ago, people dropped one zero and call it Toman. Now a days 1000 Tomans are called one Toman, who needs a central bank devaluation action when people do it on their own.
laters people,
keep checking the blog